| Upon the whole, I think Cork, even in such quarters, is much cleaner and more comfortable than Dublin; and this I can say with the greater confidence, as I pried into every opening which had the appearance of a thoroughfare, and sometimes into places where, judging from the exclamations of the people, the <em>quality</em> (as they call every body whose hat has a crown to it, and whose coat is whole and clean) are unfrequent visitors. <br>But the river is the grand object of attraction at Cork; and, accordingly, on the morning of a very fine day, I set out in a steamer for the island of Cove. The Irish fine day is, in my opinion, the finest day in the world. It would be the most dis-agreeable of all days, a bright hot day— only it is [image: Black Rock Castle] [p. 187] not: for the light and heat are both deliciously mellowed by the water-clouds, which are between you and the sun. Were it not for this protection, I am sure that in my rambles among the Wicklow hills, during the whole of which time there was not a drop of rain, I should have gone to heaven by evaporation. <br>The irregular course of the estuary makes this little voyage extremely delightful; for, every now and then, a new picture, or a new combination, presents itself. On the left are ranged the variegated heights of Glenmire, covered with woods, and dotted with villas; on the right is a flatter country, but equally rich, terminating after some time with Black Rock Castle, standing out like a watch-tower. Of this part of the river a beautiful view is annexed, which, I beg leave to say, is also a beautiful view of the <em>fine weather</em> of Ireland. This peculiarity of sky and tone will be observed in almost all the engravings in the volume; and, indeed, it could not have escaped the quick eye, and delicate pencil, of Mr. Creswick. <br>Black Rock Castle is a very conspicuous object from many points of view, both in ascending and descending the river ; but the expectations of the stranger are disappointed on approaching it. Its air of authority vanishes by degrees; till at length, when just passing it, it becomes petite and <em>nick-nackish</em>. Although modernized, however, it was originally built in the time of James I., at the same [p. 188] time with the fort of Hallbouling. The mayors of Cork are the admirals of the river, and it is here they hold their court. Here, also, in the manner of their brethren at London, they have a grand annual entertainment at the expense of the city. [pp. 186-188] |
