| This, I have mentioned, was not the route I chose myself on the present occasion, — or was compelled to choose. I proceeded almost in a straight line from Limerick, along a route which, for the most part, was dreary and uninteresting. Two or three ruins of little note, and various miserable villages, hardly improved the scene; till at length, after passing Castle-Island, the peaks of Mc Gillicuddy's Reeks appeared above the horizon in the distance. By degrees these mountains became distinctly visible; and by degrees the Lakes of Killarney unfolded themselves at the bottom. My first glimpse of the water, however, was sudden. The road had turned to the right, to traverse a wild and solitary dell; and in turning again, to resume our original course, a portion of the Lower Lake, with its mountain boundaries, appeared at the end of a vista // through the hills. Nothing could be finer than the picture thus presented; and it was viewed through its best medium, the mellowed light of evening. Killarney I found a disagreeable, mean looking, little town; and the principal inn was so bad that I was compelled to change my quarters the next morning. At the Hibernian I found myself greatly more comfortable; although it is a very inferior house in appearance. The charges at both were much too high; and I think if some spirited person were to establish a really good and moderate inn, either in the town, or, which would be preferable, nearer the lake, it would answer exceedingly well as a speculation. A description of the Lakes of Killarney! In a space like this it is impossible; and, after so many previous descriptions, it would not be desirable. I shall content myself, therefore, with giving the reader a general idea of the scene, and with endeavouring to convey a few of my own impressions. In the Guide Book he will find a sufficiently minute account of all that is necessary to be known; and in Weld's Picturesque Views of Killarney, he will travel under the guidance of a man of correct taste and of an elegant mind. Giving precedence to the arts, which, in a work like the present, is not too great humility, I first present him with the opposite view of a nook of the Lower Lake, where he will find many of the peculiarities for which Killarney is celebrated. [Vol. II, pp. 230-231] |